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night owls


At 8pm, alibuag beach front was humid. One of its many moods. No breeze, just the sound of the sea gently lapping on white sand. I don’t usually hang out there at night but we are on the stage of pouring concrete around the spring to create a pool. Low tide happens sometimes at night, midday and sometimes in the morning. It’s so unpredictable I have to rely on the locals and make the most of what little time opportunity that presents .

The beach is lined with lamp lights making the sea-licked white sands look creamy. Beyond the reach of light is darkness abroad. The only thing that separates the sky and the sea is the gas fueled lamps of bangkas (small bamboo outriggered boats) skimming for fish. Like fireflies they lined to recreate the horizon. Our mayor tagged along and was in on one of those boats with two young fishermen swimming alongside steering the boat while spotting for fish. While we waited at the shore, I have to contend with the on-going stone masonry works at the spring. Tough luck, one of our mason got in drunk and was frustratingly useless. Humiliated himself and after loud-mouthing his workmates and insulting the foreman, he went home. He will find himself jobless tomorrow after waking up with a nasty hangover. For the rest of the team, the spirits were high but the progress was slow. I will have to look for additional skilled workers.

At 10pm, the boat glided ashore. The mayor was sleeping in it. He woke up and with wobbly stomach, hauled himself out of the boat. Delighted at the catch, he called me to see it. It was a smorgasbord of delight from the sea still jumping and breathing. After they cleaned and sliced the fish we dove right in with bare hands and teeth we ate them raw bathe only with sili soaked vinegar. I have a particular taste for the moko-moko a small version of the squid. You only have to bite off its head, remove the insides with the sea, tear off the shell on its back and bon appetite. Don’t mind the gory details. With its white, gummy flesh it challenges all of your taste buds’ senses. The danggit, mol-mol and maming with their almost transparent flesh melts in your mouth and surrenders into a sweet tasting delicacy as it travels down your throat.

We washed it down with coke. I quit smoking a month ago but at that moment it was a sin not to have one. Too bad too much self restraint got the best of me.

We went home around midnight with 40% of the work completed. Its gonna be 16 more long nights to go. When I got home, a bottle of San Miguel beer pale palesin put me to sleep.

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